The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is the parish church of San Miguel de Allende and the tallest building in town. Its pink limestone spires rise over the main square, El Jardín, and show above the rooftops from many streets. The church dates to the 17th century, but the neo-Gothic facade was added in the 1880s by the stonemason Zeferino Gutiérrez. Go inside for a calm interior, carved wooden doors and colonial paintings. Then stay for the plaza, where musicians and street vendors keep it busy from morning to night.
A 17th-century church with an 1880s facade
The parish church was built in the late 17th century in a Baroque style, with two towers. It was a fairly simple building. About two hundred years later the structure began to show cracks, and the work of changing its face was handed to Zeferino Gutiérrez, a local stonemason and self-taught architect.
The new facade was commissioned by the first Bishop of León, and the work is dated to the 1880s. Gutiérrez had much of the older front demolished and rebuilt it in a neo-Gothic design. He is said to have worked from drawings, engravings and postcards of European cathedrals. The pink stone is cantera, quarried on the slopes of the Palo Huérfano volcano.
The result looks very different from the colonial buildings around it. The church is the tallest building in San Miguel de Allende. It is a parish church, not a cathedral, although it is often mistaken for one.
Inside the parish
The entrance is through large wooden doors with detailed carving. Inside, the atmosphere is quiet, and the space is used for worship, so visitors are welcome to attend a service.
The interior holds colonial-era paintings by Juan Rodríguez Juárez. One of the chapels has a figure of Christ made of orchid paste, a technique associated with Tarascan craftsmen. The church also contains religious art and a large organ.
On Wednesdays the church provides the location for a community meal for elderly people in need, served by the charity SOME, So Others May Eat.
The plaza and the town's festivals
The church stands on the main square, El Jardín, also called Jardín Allende or Jardín Principal. Benches under the trees face the facade, and the square fills with musicians, street vendors and families through the day. Snacks sold nearby include elote, esquite and shave ice.
The church is the center of the town's main celebrations. The fiesta of San Miguel Arcángel runs for two days around September 29, the feast day of St. Michael, with processions, concerts, traditional dancing and ceremonies. In September the city also marks La Alborada, which begins in the early morning with fireworks and music. At Christmas and New Year the square has a stage in front of the church, along with lights and mariachis.
Weddings take place here as well, and the plaza is often busy with photographers. Photos of the facade with no one in front of it need some patience.
Seeing the spires from the streets
The spires show above the old center from many angles. One of the best-known views is along Calle Aldama, the street that leads from Parque Benito Juárez toward the center. From there the pointed tops of the church appear above a dome in front of it, like a crown.
The stone changes color with the sun during the day, and the facade is lit at night. Close by you can also see the Templo de San Rafael, next to the parish, the Iglesia de San Francisco and the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri.
FAQ
Can you go inside the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel?
Yes. The church is open to visitors and to people who want to attend a service. Opening hours differ by day, so check them before you go.
Can you take photos inside the church?
Do not take photos during a service. At other times, keep the space quiet and respect those who are praying.
Who designed the pink facade?
Zeferino Gutiérrez, a local stonemason and self-taught architect, rebuilt the facade in neo-Gothic style in the 1880s. He is said to have drawn on pictures and postcards of European cathedrals.
Where is the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel?
It is on the main square of San Miguel de Allende, El Jardín, in the historic center. Its spires are visible from many streets, so it is easy to find.
When is the best time to see the church?
Go at sunset or after dark, when the facade is lit. The pink stone also changes color through the day.
