Where to stay in Koror: downtown, Malakal, the resort side or Airai

Palau's visitor infrastructure is concentrated in one place. The Palau Visitors Authority says the international airport is in Airai State on the big island of Babeldaob, while many hotels, resorts and the tour operators are in Koror, joined to Babeldaob by the Japan-Palau Friendship Bridge. The Koror travel guide covers what to do; this page settles where to sleep, and how that choice fits a wider Palau trip. For a first visit the answer is downtown Koror, with Malakal for divers and the resort side for a quieter stay.

Three questions decide the choice. The first is whether your days are on the water or on land. Rock Islands tours and dive trips start in Koror, so a base there cuts transfers. The second is how you like to spend evenings: Koror has restaurants and a small nightlife scene, while the resort side and Babeldaob are quiet. The third is how you move around. Tours pick you up, taxis cover short hops, and a rental car is useful on Babeldaob but less so in town. The UK government warns that roads are unlit at night and that drivers often overtake despite the ban, so build a plan that avoids driving after dark.

Price bands below are per night for a double room: $ is a simple hotel or guesthouse, $$ a mid-range hotel, $$$ an upscale resort. No exact rates are quoted because they vary by property and season, and Palau's costs move with flights and dive demand. Check the final total, and ask whether permits, transfers or breakfast are included.

Downtown is the practical base. The tourism authority describes Koror as the place where most hotels, resorts and tour operators are, and a stay here means tour offices, dive shops, restaurants and the hospital are all within a short ride. Belau National Hospital, which has the country's only hyperbaric chamber, is in Koror, and the UK government says the chamber is less than two hours from most locations. If you dive, that matters. Most Rock Islands boat tours collect guests from hotels around town, so you rarely need your own transport for the day.

Downtown also gives the widest choice of rooms, from simple hotels to mid-range properties and bed-and-breakfasts, which the official site lists alongside resorts and liveaboards. It is the base with the best signal for work or calls: the tourism authority says wifi hotspots are widely available in Koror and that the national carrier's 4G and 3G coverage reaches Koror and other states. A visitor eSIM can be bought online before arrival, and the carrier offers free wifi at the airport terminal to connect it, according to the same source.

The trade-off is atmosphere and beaches. Koror is a working town, not a beach resort, and swimming happens from boats, not from the hotel. If you want sand at the door, look at the resort side. Take care with cards: the UK government reports an increase in credit card fraud, including skimming devices, so watch where you pay and monitor your statement. The official site says US dollars are the currency and that Visa, JCB and Mastercard are widely accepted, though carrying cash is wise.

Malakal is part of the island of Koror, connected by road and causeway, according to Koror State's regulations, and it is where the state's rangers keep their station. That office sells Rock Island Use and Jellyfish Lake permits and handles boat registration, which makes Malakal the working harbor of the lagoon. A base here puts you closest to the boats, which helps on days with an early start and shortens the transfer at the end of a long day on the water.

This is the divers' choice. Dive days start early and finish tired, and a short ride to the harbor is worth more than a restaurant strip. Ask each property how it handles early breakfasts, gear drying and storage, since those matter more than a lobby on a dive trip. The cost is evening choice. Malakal has fewer restaurants and shops within walking distance, so dinners usually mean a taxi to downtown. Check how your hotel arranges meals and whether it offers a shuttle.

If you plan to combine Rock Islands days with Babeldaob days, Malakal is still workable, because the road runs through Koror to the bridge. Allow extra time at both ends, and confirm pickup points with your operator. As with any base, ask what is included in the tour price: the Koror State fact sheet says permits can be bought through most tour operators, so ask whether your operator includes them in the price.

Ngerkebesang is the island on Koror's west side that holds the resort-style stays. Koror State protects a conservation zone on its western shore, next to a resort, as a snorkeling and swimming attraction for resort guests, and it is illegal to take or disturb any flora or fauna there. That makes this the base for visitors who want a beach-style stay with calm evenings, and it suits couples, honeymooners and travelers who want a resort feel before or after Rock Islands days.

The trade-off is distance from town. Dinners, shops and tour offices are a taxi or car ride away, so budget for transfers and plan a few restaurant nights rather than expecting to wander. Tours will still collect you, and many resorts run their own desks. It is a sensible base for a few nights at the end of a trip, once you have done the early-start dive and boat days from a more central base. The tourism authority lists resorts alongside bed-and-breakfasts and liveaboards, so check what each type includes.

Plan transport ahead. The authority's site lists taxi services and car rental options, and an operator guide to taxis covers vehicle types and contacts. If you rent a car, note that the UK government says a UK photocard license can be used for up to 30 days and that paper licenses may need an update or an international driving permit; see the international driving permit guide.

Airai is where the international airport sits, on Babeldaob, the largest island. The tourism authority says a sealed highway circles Babeldaob up to the tip of Ngarchelong State, so a base here suits a land-focused trip: chiefs' meeting houses, stone terraces, waterfalls and war sites. Its seven-day plan places the first cultural day in Airai, with a visit to a traditional meeting house and a traditional-style lunch, so the area has real attractions beyond being near the runway.

For most visitors this is a one-night base, not a stay. If your flight lands late or leaves early, a night near the airport saves a rush, but you give up the restaurants and the boat departures. A longer stay works only if you plan a car and mainly land tours. The UK government warns of narrow, damaged inland roads in the wet season and says to avoid driving after dark, so keep daylight for transfers.

Check the weather. The UK advice says rainfall is higher from April to November and peaks in July and August, when severe downpours can flood and damage roads. That makes a rural base riskier in the wet months. Check with your host about road access, and ask whether the property offers transfers to Koror for boat days.

First-timers: downtown Koror. Divers: Malakal, or a liveaboard if you want more time on the water. Couples marking an occasion: Ngerkebesang. Travelers with a late arrival or an early departure: one night near the airport in Airai, then Koror. Families: downtown, where meals and the hospital are close. Land-tour fans: a few nights on Babeldaob with a rental car, then Koror for boat days. For help choosing days on the water, read the Rock Islands day tour guide.

One or two nights work best downtown, because you land, rest and start a boat day with minimal transfers. Three or more nights suit a split: two or three in Koror for lagoon days, then one or two on the resort side or in Airai. The official seven-day plan, covered in how many days in Palau, uses a single base in Koror with day trips, which is the least tiring way to see the country.

The first is booking near the airport for atmosphere: Airai is convenient, not scenic. The second is choosing a resort without checking taxi costs for dinners. The third is renting a car for the whole stay when tours pick you up. The fourth is forgetting the entry form: submit it online, and keep the QR code to show at check-in. The fifth is arriving with banned sunscreen, which customs confiscates; see Palau for the rule.

The last is skipping insurance. The UK government says to hold comprehensive cover with medical evacuation that covers your planned activities, and it warns that diving standards can differ from those at home. Compare options in the travel insurance guide, and check what the policy says about depth limits and decompression treatment.

Book your base and your tours together, since operators can arrange pickups from the hotel. Ask about permits: the Koror State fact sheet lists a Rock Island Use permit and a Jellyfish Lake permit, and says they can be bought at the Rangers' office, at the state treasury and through most tour operators. Confirm the entry rules for your passport; the UK government says UK passport holders can get a 30-day visa on arrival and need a passport valid six months beyond arrival with two blank pages. Visit the official visas and entry guide for other passports.

Set up connectivity before you fly with the phones and data guide, carry some cash in US dollars for small purchases, and read money in Palau for card tips. Tipping is optional but appreciated, according to the tourism authority.