León Cathedral, the Catedral de Santa María de Regla, stands on Plaza de Regla in the old town. Work began in 1205 on a French Gothic design. Locals call it the Pulchra Leonina and the House of Light. The second name comes from the interior, where more than 1,700 square meters of medieval stained glass throw colored light across the stone as the day moves on. Outside, look for the rose window, the three sculpted portals and the two towers. An audio guide gives the history, and bars with shade sit close by.
Roman baths, a palace and the first cathedral
The ground under the cathedral has been in use for a very long time. Roman baths once stood here. King Ordoño II of León had them converted into a palace.
In 916, after a great victory over the Arabs, the king ordered a cathedral built on the site as thanks to God. This is counted as the first cathedral. Ordoño II was buried inside it, and his epitaph records the gratitude of the people of León for his generosity.
The Gothic building seen today replaced that early church. Work began in 1205.
A French Gothic design on the Camino de Santiago
León is the last major stop on the French Way before Santiago de Compostela, and the cathedral shows it. Its Gothic style came from France with pilgrims on the Camino. Many consider it the most French of the Spanish cathedrals, and it is one of the three major cathedrals on the route.
The nave rises about 30 meters, supported by flying buttresses and pointed arches. Several architects worked on the building in different periods and for different lengths of time. In 1844 it was declared the first National Monument to be restored.
The west façade
The main front rewards a slow look before you go in. A rose window sits above three richly sculpted portals. The sculpture shows biblical scenes, including the Last Judgement. A Last Supper presides over the main entrance.
Two towers flank the façade. They are not built into the nave but joined to it by flying buttresses, and they read as almost free-standing. Their spires can be seen from most corners of the city. At night the exterior is lit.
Inside: the glass, the choir and San Froilán
The stained glass is the reason the cathedral is called the House of Light. The windows cover more than 1,700 square meters, and most of the glass is original medieval work. Reds, blues and golds fill the walls, and the scenes include biblical episodes, saints and symbols. As the sun moves, colored light travels over the floor and columns.
The walls are made largely of glass, held up by slender stonework, so the interior feels light for a building of this size. Other things to see include the choir stalls and a silver urn holding the remains of San Froilán, the patron saint of León.
Cloister, museum and walking tours
The cloister and the museum are around the corner from the main entrance. The museum holds religious sculpture and tapestries, among other objects.
An audio guide is available and covers the building's history, including how close it came to ruin and how the people of León kept it open as a church. A free walking tour run by Guru Walks starts from the northwest corner of the cathedral several times a day. The guide is paid by tips.
FAQ
Is there an entry fee for León Cathedral?
Yes, entry is paid. Buying tickets in advance is recommended. Check the cathedral's website, catedraldeleon.org, for current prices.
How long do you need at León Cathedral?
Allow at least half an hour inside to see the stained glass. With the audio guide, the cloister and the museum, plan on one to two hours.
Why is León Cathedral called the House of Light?
The walls are filled with more than 1,700 square meters of medieval stained glass. Sunlight passing through it colors the stone floor and columns.
Is León Cathedral wheelchair accessible?
The entrance is wheelchair accessible, and there is accessible parking. The parking lot is paid.
Is an audio guide worth taking?
Yes. It explains the cathedral's history, from the Roman baths and the first cathedral to the Gothic building, and it helps you read what you see.
