Plaza Grande is the main square of Mérida's historic center, bordered by calles 60, 61, 62 and 63. It is as old as the city itself and is also called Plaza de la Independencia. Large laurel trees shade the benches, and the Tu y Yo chairs, where two people sit facing each other, are a local feature. The cathedral, the Governor's Palace, Casa de Montejo and the city hall surround the square. Music, dance and craft stalls fill it through the week, and Sunday is the busiest day. It is open around the clock and free to enter.
The square and the start of the city
Plaza Grande is as old as Mérida. The Spanish founded the colonial city on the site of the Maya city of Th'o, and the square has been its center since then. It is also known as Plaza de la Independencia, and many Mexican cities call their main square the zócalo, a name sometimes used here too.
The layout reflects its role. Religious, civic and cultural institutions meet around it, which is why so many first-time visitors begin their stay here and use it to get their bearings. Mérida's plazas are built around large trees left to grow tall, and here the laurels give the benches their shade through the hot part of the day.
The buildings around the square
The Cathedral of San Ildefonso dates from the 16th century and is built on the foundations of the Maya city of Th'o. It is among the first cathedrals completed on the American continent.
Casa de Montejo stands on the south side. It dates from the 1540s and was built by Francisco de Montejo, the conquistador of Yucatán. It is regarded as the city's oldest building and is now a cultural center and museum. Its Renaissance façade is one of the best preserved in Mexico.
Next to the cathedral is the former bishop's palace, which now houses the Ateneo de Yucatán contemporary art museum. The Governor's Palace holds large murals by Fernando Castro Pacheco, a 20th-century artist born in Mérida, which tell the violent history of Yucatán. The city hall has a bell tower, and the Olimpo Cultural Center is also on the square. The tourism office is in the Palacio Municipal beside the plaza.
Events through the week
Something is usually on. Every Monday at 9 pm, the vaquería, a traditional Yucatecan dance, takes place in the plaza, with dancers in regional dress. On Friday evenings there is a pok ta pok show, a version of the Maya ball game, played in the street. Locals gather for both.
Weekends are busier. A handicraft market runs on Saturday and Sunday, with bags, accessories and souvenirs. On Sunday a street beside the square is closed to cars and the day is known as Mérida en Domingo. Food vendors, live music and folkloric dancing in front of the palace, with a live orchestra, fill the square. Stages may also go up beside the cathedral for concerts. Around Christmas and Easter the plaza is decorated for the season.
Sitting, snacking and photographing
The Tu y Yo chairs, the large MERIDA letters and the big Mexican flag are the usual photo stops. Free wifi is available in the square.
On the north side, along calle 61, Sorbetería Colón has made sorbets and ice cream for over a century. Local flavors include mamey, soursop, plantain and sweet corn. Late in the evening, street vendors sell marquesitas and esquites. Cochinita pibil and queso relleno are sold at the Sunday market.
Calle 60 runs in front of the cathedral and links the plaza with Parque de Santa Lucía and other small plazas to the north.
FAQ
Is there an entry fee for Plaza Grande?
No. It is a public square open around the clock. The dance and music events held there are free to watch.
When is the Sunday market at Plaza Grande?
The market takes place on Sundays, when a street beside the square is closed to traffic for food vendors, crafts and folkloric dancing. A smaller handicraft market also runs on Saturdays.
Is there a free walking tour from Plaza Grande?
Yes. The Mérida tourism office runs a daily free walking tour that leaves at 9:30 am from the Palacio Municipal next to the plaza. It lasts about an hour and a half and is given in English and Spanish. Tips for the guide are appreciated.
What can you see around Plaza Grande?
The Cathedral of San Ildefonso, the Governor's Palace with its murals, Casa de Montejo, the city hall and the Ateneo de Yucatán contemporary art museum are all around the square.
What is the best time to visit Plaza Grande?
Late afternoon and evening are best, when the heat eases and the music and vendors begin. Sunday is the liveliest day.
