The Dordogne
Travelers come for prehistoric cave art, castles on river cliffs and slow days in medieval towns like Sarlat-la-Canéda.
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The Dordogne is a rural department in southwest France, within the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, and it takes its name from the river that runs through it. Its limestone cliffs and caves hold well-known prehistoric paintings, including the Lascaux cave, which is closed to visitors and now shown through a replica nearby. The National Prehistory Museum in Les Eyzies covers that history.
The river valley is the main draw: castles built on cliffs above the water, stone villages and bastide towns laid out around central squares. Sarlat-la-Canéda, a medieval town with a walkable old center, is a common base for exploring the area. Canoeing on the river and long lunches built around local duck, walnuts and truffles are the other core parts of a trip. The best months are May, June, September and October, when the weather suits time on the river and at outdoor tables. Plan three to five days, more if you want the caves as well as the valley.
The Dordogne in five
- Book Lascaux IV tickets aheadThe original Lascaux cave is closed to visitors, so the replica Lascaux IV near Montignac is the main way to see the paintings. Book a timed slot online before you drive out.
- Hire a car for the valleysSarlat's old town is walkable, but the castles along the river and the cave sites are spread out. Hire a car for the valley days.Getting around
- Book Font-de-Gaume in advanceFont-de-Gaume near Les Eyzies has painted caves with a limited number of daily visitors. Book a timed slot before you go, because a walk-up visit is unlikely to work.
- Shop at the Saturday market in SarlatThe market fills the old town on Saturday morning with local cheese, walnuts, duck and truffles in season. Buy a picnic lunch there.
- Download offline maps before the valleysMobile signal drops in the river valleys and small villages, so get an eSIM with data and save offline maps before you leave Sarlat.Phones and eSIM
Things to do in The Dordogne
See all attractions in The Dordogne
Need to know
- Currency
- Euro (EUR)
- Entry
- Schengen short stay; visa-free for many passports, check France-Visas Read more
- Emergency
- 112 EU-wide; 17 police, 18 fire, 15 ambulance (SAMU)
- Tipping
- Service included by law; rounding up or a small tip is customary
- Time
- UTC+1 in winter; UTC+2 with daylight saving (late March to late October)
Weather by month
- Best
- Mixed
- Poor
- JanuaryCold, quiet
- FebruaryCold, quiet
- MarchBare, mild
- AprilSpring, few crowds
- MayMild, green
- JuneLong days
- JulySummer crowds
- AugustHot, crowded
- SeptemberWarm, harvest
- OctoberAutumn color
- NovemberQuiet, damp
- DecemberCold, quiet
Right now in The Dordogne
Local time, today's weather and the exchange rate, refreshed through the day.
11
- Feels like
- 8°
- Humidity
- 52%
- Wind
- 17 km/h
- Chance of rain
- 0%
The Dordogne
09:47 PM
Monday, November 2
- Today14°2°0%Monday: Cloudy. High 14°, Low 2°. Chance of rain 0%.
- Tue12°2°0%Tuesday: Cloudy. High 12°, Low 2°. Chance of rain 0%.
- Wed13°-3°25%Wednesday: Rain. High 13°, Low -3°. Chance of rain 25%.
- Thu14°2°20%Thursday: Fog. High 14°, Low 2°. Chance of rain 20%.
- Fri15°0°14%Friday: Fog. High 15°, Low 0°. Chance of rain 14%.
- Sat15°-1°5%Saturday: Fog. High 15°, Low -1°. Chance of rain 5%.
- Sun16°5°36%Sunday: Rain. High 16°, Low 5°. Chance of rain 36%.
Updated 05:55 PM local time · Powered by WeatherAPI.com · Weather data by Open-Meteo.com
Day trips by train
- Beynac and Castelnaud castlesHalf dayTwo castles facing each other across the river, a classic half-day.
- Lascaux IVTimed slot neededThe replica cave with painted walls. Book a timed slot first.
- Les EyziesPair with Font-de-GaumeThe National Prehistory Museum and nearby cave sites.
Before you go to The Dordogne
Rules for The Dordogne, checked
- Many nationalities enter France visa-free for short Schengen stays. Check your passport on France-Visas before you book.Source
- Carry your passport or national ID card; police can ask to see it at any time.
- Drones need registration before flying in France. Check the DGAC rules on civil aviation before you fly.
Plan around The Dordogne
Entry, transport and money for a France trip
Read the guideSarlat-la-CanédaThe base town for a Dordogne trip
Read the guideGetting aroundCar hire, buses and driving to the valleys
Read the guideMoney and costsCash, cards and typical prices in France
Read the guideVisas and entryWho needs a visa for a Schengen stay
Read the guideWhere to stayWhere to sleep in Sarlat and the valleys
Read the guideThe Dordogne FAQ
How many days do you need in Sarlat?
Two to three days cover the old town, the Saturday market, Beynac or Castelnaud, and one cave visit. Add a day for canoeing on the Dordogne if you want time on the water.
Is Sarlat worth visiting?
Yes, if you want medieval streets, honey-coloured stone and markets, plus a base for castles and caves. It is less useful if you want nightlife or long city museum visits.
Do you need a car in the Dordogne?
For most trips, yes. Sarlat's old town works on foot, but the castles and cave sites are spread out, so a car makes most day trips practical.
When is the best time to visit the Dordogne?
May to June and September to October bring mild weather and fewer crowds than July and August. Summer is busiest and hot, and winter is quiet.
Is the Dordogne safe for tourists?
Yes. Watch your bag in the crowds at the Saturday market, and do not leave valuables in view in a parked car.