Registan Square is in the centre of Samarkand, Uzbekistan, and is framed on three sides by madrasas, the Islamic schools built here between the 15th and 17th centuries. Their facades are covered in glazed tiles, mosaics and carved patterns, and their domes are blue and turquoise. The square is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most visited places in the city. Go in daylight to see the details up close, then stay for the evening light show that plays across the buildings.
Three madrasas and their builders
The square's three madrasas are the Ulugh Beg Madrasah, built in the 15th century, and the Sher-Dor and Tilya-Kori madrasas, both from the 17th century. Ulugh Beg was a grandson of Amir Timur and a scientist, and his madrasa was a place of learning where astronomers and mathematicians studied. The two later buildings completed the ensemble that gives the square its shape.
The buildings face each other across an open court, with their large portals set opposite one another. Much of the decoration is glazed tile, majolica and mosaic, arranged in colours that repeat across the walls without clashing. The mosque at the centre of the Tilya-Kori madrasa is decorated in blue and gold from floor to ceiling, and it is the part of the complex most worth allowing extra time for.
What the square was used for
Before the madrasas stood around it, the square was an open marketplace on the trade routes through Samarkand. Its name is Persian, and the usual reading is "sandy place". Over the centuries it was also where people gathered to hear proclamations from rulers, and some accounts say public executions were carried out there.
The square's role changed as the madrasas became centres of learning, and the open space between them is now a public place where people walk, sit and take photographs.
Inside the complex
The buildings can be entered for a fee. Inside, the courtyards have places to sit, which makes them a good break in a long visit. Several rooms hold small museums with historic objects and short written explanations.
Other rooms have been turned into shops selling souvenirs. Some stalls also sell ice cream and coffee within the grounds.
The evening light show
After dark the facades are lit, and a projection show runs in the evening. A short light show starts around 8.30 PM, and a larger video-mapping display follows at 9 PM. The speakers are weak, and the narration is in Russian, but the images on the walls follow the history of the city and the region, so the show is still easy to follow without the words.
The show can be watched from outside the fence. Those who go inside can sit on the floor of the square for a closer view of the screens on the buildings.
FAQ
Is there an entry fee?
Yes. Entry to the buildings is paid, and tickets can be bought at the site, though buying in advance is recommended. Reported prices have differed between visits, so check the official website before you go.
Is the evening light show worth staying for?
Yes, the larger video-mapping display starts around 9 PM. The narration is in Russian, but the images follow the history of Samarkand.
Can you watch the light show without a ticket?
Yes. The show can be seen from behind the fence outside the complex. Inside, you can sit on the floor for a closer view.
Is Registan Square wheelchair accessible?
The entrance and the parking lot are wheelchair accessible.
