La Ciudadela is a crafts market on Balderas, in the southwest corner of Mexico City's historic center, a few minutes' walk from the Museo de Arte Popular. Hundreds of stalls sell work from across the country: Oaxacan textiles, Chiapas ceramics, Guerrero silver, handblown glass from Jalisco, alebrijes, hammocks and lucha libre masks. The market began in the late 1960s as a fair for crafts and still centers on local artisans. It suits anyone who wants souvenirs and gifts made by hand, and enough time to walk the aisles slowly.
How the market began
La Ciudadela started in the late 1960s as a fair to promote Mexican crafts. The fair grew into a permanent market and now fills a large covered space on Balderas, at the corner with Dondé, in the southwest of the historic center.
The market has kept its original purpose of supporting local artisans. Hundreds of stalls now sell work from many regions, which is why it is often the first place people send visitors who want handmade goods.
What the stalls sell
Textiles are the largest group: blankets, tablecloths, rebozos, loom-woven and hand-embroidered blouses, and Oaxacan wool rugs. Hammocks hang beside them. Ceramics include painted pieces from Chiapas and Puebla, Talavera pottery, plates, cups and serving dishes.
For jewelry, look for silver from Guerrero and Taxco and beadwork. Chaquira beadwork from Jalisco is made by the Huichol people. Glass is handblown, and you will also find embossed mirrors, stone sculptures, guitars and wooden animals.
Alebrijes, the brightly painted papier-mâché figures, sit next to Day of the Dead pieces and lucha libre masks. Some stalls also carry ex-voto paintings, and a few of these date back to the 1600s. For ceremonial Mayan masks in wood and obsidian, go to stand 104, where the craftspeople are often at work.
Planning the visit
The market is open daily, and it is a short walk from the Museo de Arte Popular. Balderas metro station is nearby. There is a free and a paid parking lot, and free street parking in the area.
The entrance, restroom and parking lot are wheelchair accessible. Debit cards and contactless mobile payments are accepted, but bring cash for bargaining.
The aisles are long and the market is large, so pick a side and work along it. Take breaks outside near the park, where additional stands sell handmade goods.
Other craft markets in the city
If you are staying in the south of the city, Mercado Artesanal Mexicano in Coyoacán is another option. The Bazaar del Sábado in San Ángel is more upscale and open only on Saturdays. La Ciudadela stays the broadest choice for work from across the country in one visit.
FAQ
Where is La Ciudadela market?
It is on Balderas, at the corner with Dondé, in the southwest part of Mexico City's historic center. The Balderas metro station is close, and the Museo de Arte Popular is a few minutes away on foot.
Can you bargain at La Ciudadela?
Yes, bargaining is welcome at the stalls. Carrying cash helps when you ask for a better price.
What can you buy at La Ciudadela?
You can buy textiles, hammocks, ceramics, silver jewelry, handblown glass, alebrijes, masks, mirrors and home goods from many parts of Mexico.
How long do you need at La Ciudadela?
Plan one to three hours. The market is large, and the aisles take time to walk even if you only browse.
Is La Ciudadela wheelchair accessible?
The entrance, restroom and parking lot are all wheelchair accessible.
