Castello di Vezio is a medieval castle on the hill above Varenna, on Lake Como. The walk up from town takes about half an hour on stone paths, and the reward is a wide view over the lake and the mountains around it. Inside the walls you can climb the tower, walk the shady gardens with their bonsai and olive trees, and see the plaster ghost figures that the castle is known for. Falconry shows run at certain times, and a small cafe sits on site.
History of the castle
The site has been occupied since the Iron Age. The tower that stands today was built between the 11th and 12th centuries, and the castle served as a defensive post above the town.
Walls once ran from the castle down to the lake to protect the village. One account ties the area's prosperity to a nearby quarry for black marble, used for local buildings and in Milan's cathedral.
Local legend credits the Lombard queen Theodolinda with ordering the castle built, a few years before her death in 627 AD. The date of construction is not known with certainty.
Inside the castle
The castle has few rooms, so most of the visit is spent on the walls, the tower and the grounds. The displays and decorations create a historical mood.
The observation tower gives the widest view. The gardens around the walls are shady and planted with bonsai trees and olive trees.
Stairs lead down to the old jail area, which feels like a haunted house, especially when the eerie music is playing. Some accounts describe a drawbridge that is still in working order.
The ghost figures
The plaster figures in the gardens and ruins are cast each spring. A chalk and gauze mixture is draped over willing visitors, who stay still for 20 to 30 minutes. The casts are then removed and placed around the ruins.
The figures are linked to a local legend about ghosts that were said to live in the fortress.
Falconry and the bird center
The castle is also a breeding, nursing and training center for birds of prey. Shows have featured tawny owls, buzzards, barn owls and falcons. Actors sometimes take part and set the scene in an earlier time.
The shows run at certain times, so check the schedule before you go.
Getting there
The castle sits above Varenna and is reached on foot. From the main piazza, signs point the way along a steep stone mule track.
A second route starts at the north end of town, at Olivedo, on a cobblestone path of about 30 minutes. A third starts opposite Villa Monastero and takes around 40 minutes. Visitors arriving by ferry can walk up from the landing.
The walk passes through woodland, olive groves and wildflowers, and part of the route follows the Sentiero del Viandante. The site lists a wheelchair-accessible entrance, but the approach is a steep climb.
FAQ
How long is the walk up to Castello di Vezio?
The walk from Varenna takes about 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the route. The path from the north end of town is about 30 minutes, and the one from opposite Villa Monastero takes about 40.
Is there an entry fee?
Yes, there is an entry fee. Prices are not stated consistently, so check the current price on the castle's website or at the ticket office.
Do I need to book tickets in advance?
Advance tickets are recommended. Check the castle's website for how to book.
Is Castello di Vezio suitable for children?
Yes, it is considered good for children. The old jail area is spooky, so younger visitors may want to take a look before going down.
