La Vieille Bourse is the former stock exchange on Lille's main square, a Flemish Renaissance building raised in 1652 and 1653. Its 24 matching houses ring an inner courtyard where secondhand booksellers display old novels, posters, prints and comics, and chess players gather. Walk through one of the four openings to reach the arcades and carved stonework, then take your time among the stalls.
From stock exchange to landmark
Julien Destrée, an architect and cabinet maker, took on the building between 1652 and 1653, when Lille was under Spanish rule. The city had obtained a licence from Philip IV of Spain to build an exchange for its merchants, and Destrée was the man who carried it out. The design took its cue from the exchange in Amsterdam.
The building answered a need felt by the city's bankers and traders in the mid-17th century. They had been doing business in an open-air spot, and they wanted a more comfortable place to meet. The new exchange also gave Lille a way to compete with trading rivals such as Antwerp, Ghent and Bruges.
Trading later moved to the Chamber of Commerce and Industry, housed in the Palais de la Bourse across the square. That building was erected in 1910 by Louis Marie Cordonnier and has a neo-Flemish bell tower, and its ground floor is open to the public. The older building was named a historical monument in 1921.
The facade and the courtyard
The facade is in Flemish Renaissance style, with deep red and beige tones, elaborate reliefs, cherubs and garlands. Look up at the upper storeys, where the carved detail is strongest.
The 24 houses surround an inner courtyard lined with arcades and galleries. Four openings lead into it, so you can enter from whichever side of the square you reach first. At times an art installation, a mirror sphere, sits in the centre of the courtyard.
The courtyard is a popular spot for photographs, and the facade and arcades make a strong backdrop for a photo of the square.
What happens in the courtyard
About eight permanent booksellers have worked here since 1982. They display thousands of rare books, cinema posters, prints and maps, along with comics from vintage Marvel and DC titles to Tintin and Mickey Mouse. The afternoon book market is the busiest time for the stalls.
Chess players are a regular sight, and some accounts mention flower sellers in the courtyard as well. On summer Sunday evenings, between July and September, tango music draws dancers from across the city. You can join in or watch from the edges.
Many of the books and papers are in French. Some are in English, and a few are in Ch'ti, the local dialect, so it is worth searching the piles if you read English.
Visiting with children and mobility needs
The entrance is wheelchair accessible, and the place is suitable for children. The courtyard is small enough to walk around at an easy pace, and the chess games and stalls give younger visitors something to look at.
The square can be busy, especially in the afternoon and on summer evenings. If you want a quieter visit, come on a weekday or in the morning. Give the chess players room when you pass their tables, since they are often in the middle of a game.
FAQ
How long do you need at La Vieille Bourse?
Allow 30 to 60 minutes to walk through the courtyard. Browsing the book stalls can take longer.
Is La Vieille Bourse wheelchair accessible?
Yes, the entrance is wheelchair accessible.
Is it suitable for children?
Yes, the place is suitable for children. Chess games and the book stalls give younger visitors something to watch.
When does the tango take place?
Tango dancing is held on Sunday evenings in summer, from July to September, in the courtyard.
Is there parking nearby?
Parking is paid. Plan your transport before you arrive.
