Omoide Yokocho, or Memory Lane, is a tight network of food alleys beside Shinjuku Station’s west side in Tokyo. Lanterns light the narrow lanes, where small izakayas and restaurants grill yakitori and serve drinks at close-set counters. The area grew from a post-war street market and keeps an old-fashioned feel against Shinjuku’s modern surroundings. Walk through to take in the lantern-lit scene, or find an open seat for skewers and a drink. Most places have very little room, so smaller groups are easier to accommodate.
From post-war market to food alley
Omoide Yokocho began as a street market in the years after the Second World War, when vendors and black-market traders set up in the area. Today, the narrow lanes are lined with small restaurants and izakayas, but their compact scale and old-fashioned atmosphere remain part of the experience.
The name means “Memory Lane.” The area is also known by a cruder nickname tied to its past, but Memory Lane is the name that best suits a visit focused on its food stalls and lantern-lit streets.
What to look for in the lanes
The alley’s appeal is in its close quarters: small eateries sit beside one another, and open grills send the smell of cooking into the narrow walkways. Red lanterns and the glow from restaurant fronts give the area a different feel from the modern streets around Shinjuku Station.
Yakitori is a common choice, alongside other grilled skewers and izakaya dishes. Some places also serve ramen or soba. Menus and choices vary from one small restaurant to the next, so take a look at the entrance and choose a place with an open seat that suits you.
Finding a seat and settling in
Many restaurants have only a handful of seats, often arranged close together at a counter. That intimate setup is part of the character, but it leaves little room for large groups. If you are visiting with several people, finding seats together can be difficult; a small group is more practical.
The lanes become busy, particularly in the evening. Arriving earlier or choosing a weekday can make it easier to look around before stopping for food. Some bars may have a cover charge or specific entry requirements, so check before going in. Carry cash, since some businesses are cash-only.
Preguntas frecuentes
Where is Omoide Yokocho?
It is beside the west side of Shinjuku Station in Shinjuku, Tokyo.
What should I eat at Omoide Yokocho?
Yakitori and other grilled skewers are common choices. Some eateries also serve ramen or soba.
When is a good time to visit?
Try a weekday or early evening to avoid the busiest period.
Is there room for a large group?
Many eateries have only a few seats, so it can be difficult for larger groups to sit together.
