Bich Dong Pagoda is a three-tier temple complex built into a limestone mountain about 2 km from Tam Coc in Ninh Binh province. Its lower, middle and upper pagodas, known as Ha, Trung and Thuong, sit on different levels of the cliff, joined by stone steps and a path through a natural cave. A stone bridge crosses a lotus pond to the ornate gate, which is the classic photo spot. Entry is free. Allow time for the climb, because the view from the top is the payoff.
Getting there from Tam Coc
Bich Dong lies about 2 km from the Tam Coc wharf, on the road that runs southwest from the boat dock. You can walk or cycle there. The wharf is also the starting point for the boat trip on the Ngo Dong River, so the two stops pair well in one half-day.
The pagoda sits at the foot of Ngu Nhac Son mountain in Ninh Hai commune, Hoa Lu district. A parking area is available nearby. The entrance and the restroom are listed as wheelchair accessible.
A path beside the pagoda leads up toward Hanh Phuc Lake (Happiness Lake). From there, the views reach over the surrounding mountains and countryside.
A name and a history
The complex is dated to the 15th century. Its name is usually translated as Green Pearl Grotto. In 1773, Nguyen Nghiem, the father of the poet Nguyen Du, is said to have visited the cave and given it this name after taking in the mountains, waterways and fields. Some guides call it the second most beautiful cave in Vietnam.
During the First Indochina War, the caves were used as a hiding place by the Vietnamese army, according to one account of the site.
The three pagodas
The complex has three pagodas on different levels: Ha (lower), Trung (middle) and Thuong (upper). The lower pagoda sits at the entrance beside the lotus pond, and a stone bridge leads to its gate. Stone steps climb from there to the higher levels.
If you are short on time, the lower pagoda can be visited on its own. The middle and upper pagodas take more effort and more time, but they are where the views are.
Inside the cave passage
On the way up, the path runs through a natural cave. The air is cool inside. Buddha images are carved into the stalactites, and poems have been carved into the walls of the temple and the cave, so a slow pace helps you notice them.
Bats roost in the cave, and you may notice a strong smell. A small bonsai garden at the entrance has miniature temples set against the limestone hills.
The climb and the view
The climb is the physical part of the visit. The steps are steep in places and can be slippery after rain. Take the climb slowly and stop at each level.
At the top, the panorama covers the mountains and the rice fields around the pagoda. Give yourself a few minutes to look before you head back down.
Visiting with respect
Bich Dong is a working place of worship. Monks and local people pray here, so keep your voice low and be mindful of those at prayer.
Dress with covered shoulders and knees. If you arrive in shorts or a sleeveless top, use the cloth wrap at the entrance. Put rubbish in the bins, and carry it with you if none are close.
Perguntas frequentes
Is there an entry fee?
Entry to the pagoda is free. Parking is a separate matter, and some people near the gate ask for money, so ask the price before you agree.
How long do you need?
Plan 30 to 45 minutes. The lower pagoda can be seen in less time, while the climb to the upper levels takes longer.
Is Bich Dong wheelchair accessible?
The entrance and the restroom are listed as wheelchair accessible. The upper levels involve steep stone steps and a cave passage.
Is it far from Tam Coc?
It is about 2 km from the Tam Coc wharf, a short walk or cycle ride along the road from the boat dock.
