Wat Pho Chai is the largest and most important temple in Nong Khai, on Phrachak Sinlapakhom Road in the town centre. Its main draw is Luang Pho Phra Sai, a bronze Buddha with a gold head, shown in the subduing Mara posture. The walls of the ordination hall are covered with murals of the Buddha's life, local legends and daily life in town. The temple can be seen in 30 to 45 minutes, and a few quieter shrines stand behind the main buildings.
From Wat Phi Piew to a royal temple
Before it became a royal temple, the site was called Wat Phi Piew and was used as a cremation ground. During the Rattanakosin period the temple was renamed Wat Pho Chai.
Today it is a third-class royal temple of the Mahanikai sect. It is regarded as an ancient temple of great importance to Nong Khai Province, because it houses the sacred Luang Pho Phra Sai.
The Luang Pho Phra Sai image
Legend holds that the image was one of three Buddha statues cast for the three daughters of King Setthathirath of Lan Xang. The daughters were named Serm, Suk and Sai, and the images became known as Phra Serm, Phra Suk and Phra Sai.
After the wars between Thailand and Laos in 1827 and 1828, the images were taken from Vientiane along the Mekong. Phra Suk is lost, and Phra Serm is now in Bangkok. Phra Sai remains in Nong Khai.
The statue is a bronze Buddha with a solid gold head, about 1.5 metres tall, shown in the subduing Mara posture. The image is considered a guardian of the city, and it has a long link with both Thai and Lao people. During Songkran, the statue is paraded around town for a sacred bathing ceremony, and people pour water over it and pay their respects.
Murals inside the ordination hall
The ubosot, or ordination hall, is covered in painted walls. The paintings show the life of the Buddha, local legends and scenes of daily life among the townsfolk.
The walls also show the Siamese campaign into Laos and the three Buddha images taken from Vientiane. The eventful history of Luang Pho Phra Sai appears in several scenes, so take time with the walls rather than only looking at the main altar.
Around the grounds
Small shrines are tucked away behind some of the buildings, so walk the full site rather than stopping at the main hall. The entrance area has decorated walls, and a newly painted tuk-tuk often waits outside the gate.
Landscaping has been under way around the main building, with earth dug up and new trees being planted. The large parking area can hold many minibuses and coaches, so the site can feel busy at midday.
Getting there and planning the visit
The temple sits in the town centre on Phrachak Sinlapakhom Road. Walking from the centre takes about 30 minutes, and a tuk-tuk is a common choice for the trip.
A market sits right beside the temple. The Mekong riverfront and the Tha Sadet Indochina Market are also in the town, so the temple works well as one stop on a morning in Nong Khai. The temple is close to the Laos border checkpoint.
Perguntas frequentes
Is there an entry fee?
Entry is free.
How long do you need at Wat Pho Chai?
Plan 30 to 45 minutes to see the main hall, the murals and the grounds. The temple is open daily from early morning until early evening.
When is the Bun Bang Fai festival held?
The Bun Bang Fai rocket festival takes place at the temple during the full moon of the seventh lunar month, around June.
What should I wear when visiting?
Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and remove your shoes before entering the halls.
