The Cabañas Museum occupies the Hospicio Cabañas, a neoclassical complex at the eastern end of Plaza Tapatía in Guadalajara. It was built to shelter orphans, the elderly and the sick, and it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. The main reason to go is José Clemente Orozco's murals in the Capilla Mayor, including El Hombre de Fuego in the dome. Around the chapel, low buildings open onto courtyards, and rotating exhibitions fill the rooms. The vaulted ceilings and quiet patios make for an unhurried visit.
From hospice to cultural institute
The Hospicio Cabañas was founded to care for people in need: orphans, the elderly, people with disabilities and the chronically ill. Bishop Juan Cruz Ruiz de Cabañas y Crespo founded it, and the building took his name. Until 1980 it kept working as a hospital. That year the Cabañas Cultural Institute moved in, along with affiliated schools of arts and crafts.
Today the complex is a place for exhibitions and cultural events. Each February, around the 14th, the GDLUZ festival uses it as one of its venues for about three days, together with the cathedral, Liberation Square and the Degollado Theater.
The building and its courtyards
The complex is neoclassical and monumental in scale, covering 2.34 hectares. Its plan is rectangular, and single-story buildings are arranged around open spaces. There are more than 20 patios, and arches, domes and a large courtyard give the interior an open, airy feel. The scale also explains the quiet: the visitor traffic spreads out, and some corners are often empty.
In the interior courtyards you will find works by the French conceptual artist Daniel Buren. They sit within an 18th and 19th century structure, and the contrast is part of the visit. The museum stands at the eastern end of Plaza Tapatía, one block from Mercado Libertad. Mercado San Juan de Dios, the large indoor market, is also close.
Orozco in the Capilla Mayor
The chapel is the part of the visit that most people come for. Orozco painted the ceiling and dome of the Capilla Mayor with modernist murals, and the series ranks among his best work. The paintings are political and strongly coloured, and they contrast with the calm neoclassical chapel around them. In all, he painted 57 frescoes here between 1937 and 1939.
The best-known image is El Hombre de Fuego, the Man of Fire, in the dome. Because it is overhead, the chapel provides benches, and many visitors lie back on them to take it in. The museum also holds around 340 other pieces by Orozco, including easel paintings, as well as works by other leading contemporary Mexican artists.
Exhibition rooms
The galleries change over time. Rotating photography exhibitions fill some of them, and the Sala Sampietro presents the posthumous work of Fernando Sampietro. Since the programme changes, the exhibitions are an extra on top of the building and the murals. The museum's website lists current shows.
FAQ
Is the Cabañas Museum free?
Entry is free on Tuesdays. For ticket prices on other days, check the museum's official website.
What days is the Cabañas Museum open?
It is open Tuesday to Sunday in the daytime and closed on Mondays.
What is the main thing to see at the Cabañas Museum?
The Orozco murals in the Capilla Mayor, above all El Hombre de Fuego in the dome. The 57 frescoes were painted between 1937 and 1939.
Where is the Cabañas Museum?
It is at Calle Cabañas 8, at the eastern end of Plaza Tapatía in Guadalajara's historic centre. Mercado Libertad is one block away.
How long do you need at the Cabañas Museum?
Plan on 1 to 3 hours. The complex is large and has more than 20 patios, so allow longer if you want to see the exhibition rooms as well as the chapel.
