Capilla del Obispo is a late Gothic chapel on Plaza de la Paja in Madrid’s La Latina neighbourhood. Inside, a large Mannerist altarpiece draws the eye, with carved walnut doors and stone tombs adding detail to the visit. The chapel is linked to Bishop Gutierre Vargas y Carvajal, who commissioned it, and to the House of Alba. It is open to visitors on Wednesdays; volunteer guides can explain its history and features. Go for the architecture and craftsmanship, and take time to look closely at the entrance as well as the interior.
The entrance and carved doors
The chapel stands at Plaza de la Paja, 5. Its stone façade is plain, so the entrance gives little indication of the detail inside. Access is at the end of a short double stone staircase. After the outer door, a short passage leads toward the chapel.
The inner walnut door is carved with medallions of Saints John, two scenes from the Old Testament and candelieri ornament. Take a moment to examine the work before entering. Above the façade, a severe Renaissance-style gallery is another distinctive part of the exterior.
Inside the chapel
The late Gothic interior has a polygonal apse and a large, densely worked Mannerist altarpiece at the front. Two smaller cenotaphs sit in arcosoliums on either side. A further arcosolium in the Epistle wall contains the alabaster tomb of Bishop Gutierre Vargas y Carvajal, the chapel’s patron. The tomb is empty.
The woodwork, altarpiece and tomb give the visit several details to take in at close range. Volunteers may offer explanations during visits. For a more in-depth guided tour, arrange one through the Almudena Cathedral Museum.
The bishop and the House of Alba
Gutierre Vargas y Carvajal died in 1559, two years before Madrid became the capital of the Habsburg monarchy and its empire. His connection to the chapel is visible in its tomb and in the history told during visits.
The chapel was associated with the House of Alba; Cayetana, Duchess of Alba, later ceded it to the Archbishop of Madrid. Its location beside the former church of San Andrés also ties it to the history of this part of La Latina. The chapel survived the destruction of the adjoining church.
Preguntas frecuentes
When can you visit Capilla del Obispo?
It is listed as open on Wednesdays and closed on the other days of the week. Check the current schedule before travelling.
Is admission free?
The available visit information says admission is free on Wednesdays. Advance booking is recommended.
Can you take a guided tour?
Volunteers may explain the chapel during visits. Guided tours can also be arranged through the Almudena Cathedral Museum.
What should you see inside Capilla del Obispo?
Look for the large Mannerist altarpiece, the carved walnut doors and the alabaster tomb of Bishop Gutierre Vargas y Carvajal.
