In Havana Vieja, the Church of the Holy Guardian Angel stands out for its neo-Gothic vertical lines among the district’s heavier Baroque buildings. The church is linked to Cuban figures José Martí and Félix Varela, both baptized here, and to Cirilo Villaverde’s novel Cecilia Valdés. Look for the statue of Cecilia outside and the plaque about Villaverde opposite the church door. Nearby cafés make it easy to pause in the square, or continue through the surrounding old streets.
A church built and rebuilt
The church was originally built in 1690 and rebuilt in 1866. Its tall, clean lines set it apart from the massive Baroque buildings around it in Havana Vieja.
José Martí and Félix Varela were baptized here. Varela was a priest, patriot and educator; both men are associated with Cuba’s independence history.
Cecilia Valdés and the church square
The church also has a literary connection to Cirilo Villaverde, whose novel Cecilia Valdés includes the site. A plaque on the wall opposite the church door commemorates Villaverde and his portrait of 19th-century Cuban life.
Outside, look for the statue of Cecilia. The surrounding square has cafés and restaurants, and nearby lanes offer a chance to see old buildings and local street life.
Preguntas frecuentes
Which Cuban figures were baptized at the church?
José Martí and Félix Varela were baptized here.
What is the church’s connection to Cecilia Valdés?
Cirilo Villaverde included the church in his novel Cecilia Valdés. A statue of Cecilia stands outside, and a plaque about Villaverde is opposite the church door.
When does the church open for worship?
It opens in late afternoon for religious services, which begin at 4pm.
