The Catedral de San Ildefonso stands on the east side of Plaza Grande in Mérida, Yucatán. It is one of the oldest cathedrals in the Americas. Work on it began in 1561 with stone taken from the pyramids of T'hó, the Maya city that the colonial town was built over. The plain Renaissance façade, the twin bell towers and the calm interior are the main things to see. It is still an active church, so dress modestly. The Palacio de Gobierno and the Casa de Montejo are on the same square, so a visit fits easily into a walk around the centre.
From T'hó to a cathedral
Work on the cathedral began in 1561. Its stone came from the pyramids of T'hó, the Maya city that the Spanish built their colonial town over. Several hundred Maya workers were involved, and the job took about 37 years. The first stage was completed in 1598.
The design follows the sober Renaissance style of an architect who had worked on El Escorial in Madrid. Mérida is one of several colonial cities where stone from indigenous temples was taken and reused for Spanish buildings, and this cathedral is one of the most striking examples in the city.
The façade and towers
The front is stark and unadorned. Instead of windows, it has gunnery slits. The spires show faint Moorish influence, and the twin bell towers are the most visible part of the building from the plaza.
Above the central section, large columns hold an arch that frames the coat of arms of Spain. The main entrance is flanked by four columns, with statues of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.
Inside the church
The interior is simple. Some visitors find it plainer than the painted and decorated churches of Europe. The walls and pillars have been cleaned and renovated, so the building looks less old than its date suggests. A small chapel and a set of historic objects are also inside.
Behind the main altar stands the Cristo de la Unidad, a large wooden crucifix. It is seen as a symbol of the reconciliation between Spanish and Maya heritage.
A replica of the Cristo de las Ampollas, the Christ of the Blisters, is also here. During the revolutionary movement of 1915, a fire broke out in the cathedral. Afterwards, the figure was found to have blisters, which people took as a miracle. The figure became known by that name.
Around Plaza Grande
The Palacio de Gobierno, on the same square, has murals that show Maya resistance, the conquest and Maya culture. They were painted by Fernando Castro Pacheco across the walls of a 19th-century government building.
The Casa de Montejo was built for the family of Francisco de Montejo, the city's founder. It is now a museum with period furniture, portraits and carved stone façades.
A few streets north, the Plaza Santa Lucía is a local meeting place, and the Paseo Montejo is a wide, tree-lined avenue of Beaux Arts homes.
Pok Ta Pok in front of the cathedral
On some evenings, the ancient Maya ball game is staged in front of the cathedral. Players wear body paint and loincloths. They use their hips to send a rubber ball through an elevated stone hoop, and the ball is lit on fire during play. The game is a re-enactment without human sacrifice.
Larger courts survive at Chichén Itzá and other Maya sites. This is the city's own version, and the crowd gathers in the plaza in the evening. Check the schedule before you plan around it, and arrive early to get a seat.
Perguntas frequentes
Is the cathedral still used for worship?
Yes. It is a working church, and locals attend mass there regularly.
What should I wear?
Dress appropriately when you go in, since it is an active church.
How old is the cathedral?
Work began in 1561, and the first stage was completed in 1598.
Where is the cathedral?
It stands on the east side of Plaza Grande in central Mérida, on Calle 60.
Is there a Maya ball game in front of the cathedral?
Yes, a Pok Ta Pok re-enactment is held there on some evenings. Check the schedule before you go.
