Santa María del Naranco is a pre-Romanesque building on the slope of Monte Naranco, a short bus ride or a walk above Oviedo in Asturias. King Ramiro I had it built as a royal palace, and it was later converted into a church. Its two-storey form, tall slender arches and carved details make it one of the region's best-known examples of this style. Stand at the loggia for the view over Oviedo, and join a guided tour to see the interior, which is given in Spanish.
A royal palace turned church
King Ramiro I of Asturias ordered the building in the mid-9th century as a royal residence. Its exact purpose is debated. Some accounts describe a hunting lodge, others a throne room for ceremonies, and scholars are not sure of its role.
The building was later converted into a church, and it is now known by the name of a saint. It has kept its original design, with only a few renovations.
Layout and decoration
The building has two storeys. The ground floor holds a crypt with barrel-vaulted ceilings. The upper floor is a large vaulted hall that opens outward through two wide bay windows, which are the loggias where visitors stand for views.
Tall, slender arches and columns carry rope-like decoration typical of the pre-Romanesque style. Carved medallions sit in the spaces above the arches, and several show animals.
Inside the building
The interior can be seen only on a scheduled guided tour. These tours are given in Spanish. Access is limited, so plan the visit around a tour time and confirm it before you travel.
The stonework inside is the main reason to join a tour. Ask staff whether printed information in your language is available.
Getting there and around
Bus line A runs from the centre of Oviedo to the site in about half an hour. Walking uphill from the centre takes roughly 45 to 50 minutes.
There is a free parking lot and a paid one. The entrance, restroom, parking and seating are wheelchair accessible. Assisted listening devices and a hearing loop are also available.
The nearby monuments
San Miguel de Lillo stands about 300 metres away, close enough to walk between the two. Together they are part of a group of pre-Romanesque monuments that UNESCO listed in 1985. The group also includes the Santullano church and the Foncalada water works.
You can continue on foot to Pico Paisano at the top of Monte Naranco. The Pre-Romanesque Interpretation Centre of Asturias is in the same area and explains the other monuments.
FAQ
Can you go inside Santa María del Naranco?
Yes, but only on a scheduled guided tour, which is given in Spanish. Advance tickets are recommended.
How do you get there from Oviedo?
Bus line A takes about half an hour. Walking from the centre takes about 45 to 50 minutes.
Is there parking at the site?
There is a free parking lot and a paid parking lot.
Is the site wheelchair accessible?
The entrance, restroom, parking and seating are wheelchair accessible.
