Near Piazza Navona, the Church of Saint Louis of the French is Rome’s national church for the French community and a working place of worship. Its Contarelli Chapel holds three major Caravaggio paintings devoted to Saint Matthew: The Calling of Saint Matthew, The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew and Saint Matthew and the Angel. Look for the way light enters the chapel and echoes the paintings’ strong contrasts. The church’s gilded details, marble, stucco and other decorated chapels reward a slower look beyond the famous trio.
A French church in Rome
The Church of Saint Louis of the French, also called San Luigi dei Francesi, stands in Piazza di San Luigi de’ Francesi, a short walk from Piazza Navona. Dedicated to Louis IX, King of France, it is the national church of France in Rome and a spiritual center for the French community.
Work on the church began in 1518, commissioned by Cardinal Giulio de’ Medici for Rome’s growing French community. The building was completed in 1589 with support from Catherine de’ Medici. Its travertine façade includes statues and decorative references to French royalty. Inside, gold, marble, stucco and allegorical figures give the church a richly detailed appearance.
Caravaggio’s Saint Matthew paintings
The main draw for many art lovers is the Contarelli Chapel, at the back-left of the church. It contains three large Caravaggio paintings about Saint Matthew: The Calling of Saint Matthew, The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew and Saint Matthew and the Angel. Together, they bring scenes from the saint’s life into a recognizably human world, with figures painted with striking realism and strong contrasts of light and dark.
In The Calling of Saint Matthew, a beam of light crosses a group gathered around a table. The painted light aligns with natural light entering the chapel, linking the scene to the space around it. Caravaggio also drew on people from Rome’s streets as models for religious figures. Look closely at the faces and gestures to see how that human detail shapes the paintings.
Look beyond the Contarelli Chapel
The Caravaggio works are not the church’s only significant art. Other chapels contain Baroque paintings and sculpture, while the ceiling and walls carry gilded decoration, stucco and frescoes. The chapel devoted to Saint Cecilia is decorated with frescoes by Domenichino, a major Baroque painter whose work is associated with the harmony of Raphael.
The church is open in the afternoon, from 2:30 to 6:30 PM, every day of the week. Advance tickets are recommended. Take time to look around the full interior once you have seen the Contarelli Chapel; the church’s smaller details and other artworks are easy to miss if you focus only on Caravaggio.
FAQ
Where is the Church of Saint Louis of the French?
It is in Piazza di San Luigi de’ Francesi in Rome, a short walk from Piazza Navona.
What is the church known for?
The Contarelli Chapel holds three Caravaggio paintings devoted to Saint Matthew: The Calling of Saint Matthew, The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew and Saint Matthew and the Angel.
When is the church open?
It is open daily from 2:30 to 6:30 PM.
Are tickets recommended in advance?
Yes. Advance tickets are recommended.
