On Rome’s Caelian Hill, this 4th-century basilica stands above the home traditionally associated with the martyrs John and Paul. Its Baroque interior is known for the many chandeliers hanging over the nave and side spaces, and visitors can illuminate them for a small fee. Look for the 12th-century Romanesque bell tower, then visit the Roman Houses of the Caelian beneath the church, where ancient rooms, frescoes and an underground passage reveal earlier layers of the site.
A church above an ancient Roman home
The Basilica of Saints John and Paul stands on the Caelian Hill, at Piazza dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Its name comes from two early Christian martyrs. Tradition holds that John and Paul lived and were executed here during the reign of Emperor Julian the Apostate, and that the church was built over their home in the 4th century.
The site developed across several periods. The basilica’s early Christian foundations sit above Roman remains, while its interior was renovated in the Baroque era. This combination gives the church a different character from a building shaped by a single period: ancient and medieval elements meet a more ornate interior.
Chandeliers and the Romanesque bell tower
The church is often called the Church of the Chandeliers, a reference to the many hanging lamps that fill the nave and side spaces. Their light brings out the richly decorated interior. You can pay a small fee to illuminate the chandeliers; this is a distinctive part of a visit, especially if you want to see the space lit up.
Outside, look for the Romanesque bell tower added in the 12th century. The tower stands to the right of the square, separate from the basilica. Nearby, the Clivus Scauri is an ancient Roman street that adds another historic layer to the setting.
The Roman Houses beneath the basilica
The Roman Houses of the Caelian, known in Italian as Case Romane del Celio, lie directly beneath the church. The excavations expose a complex of ancient residential rooms, including spaces associated with early Christianity. Preserved details include ancient frescoes and a 4th-century cryptoporticus, an underground passage.
The underground remains offer a closer look at the buildings that preceded the basilica. Allow time to explore them as well as the church above. Information in the supplied material also connects some excavated rooms with a vivarium and a passage toward the Colosseum, but accounts differ on the interpretation, so those details are not included here.
FAQ
Where is the Basilica of Saints John and Paul?
It is on the Caelian Hill at Piazza dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo, 13, in Rome.
Can you visit Roman ruins beneath the basilica?
Yes. The Roman Houses of the Caelian are directly beneath the church and include ancient rooms, frescoes and an underground passage.
Can visitors illuminate the chandeliers?
Yes. Visitors can pay a small fee to illuminate the chandeliers.
