Esztergom Basilica stands on Castle Hill above the Danube, with Slovakia on the far bank. It is the largest church in Hungary and the seat of the Archbishop of Esztergom-Budapest. The neoclassical building was consecrated in 1856. Behind the high altar hangs The Assumption of Mary by Michelangelo Grigoletti, a painting on one huge canvas. The church and its grounds are free to enter. The dome, treasury and crypt need a ticket. From the dome you look across the river into Slovakia, and a café waits by the exit.
Castle Hill and the churches before this one
Esztergom was once the capital of Hungary, and it is regarded as the birthplace of the Hungarian state. Saint Stephen I, the country's first king, is closely tied to the city. The basilica stands on Castle Hill, on the site of earlier churches.
A cathedral dedicated to St Adalbert stood here in the time of Stephen. It was destroyed first by fire and later by the Ottoman Turks, who for a time also used it as a mosque. In 1594, during the recapture of the castle, gunpowder stored in the building exploded. Only the red marble Renaissance chapel of Archbishop Tamás Bakócz, built between 1506 and 1511, survived intact.
Building the present basilica
Work on the present church began in 1822 and continued until 1869. It was consecrated in 1856 with a sung Mass composed by Franz Liszt. József Hild, who also designed the cathedral in Eger, took part in the final stages.
The church is neoclassical and the interior covers 5,600 square metres. One source gives the walls a thickness of 17 metres, the thickest in Central Europe. At the time of building it was said to be the third biggest church in Europe, after St Peter's in Rome and St Paul's in London. Today it is the tallest building in Hungary and the mother church of the Archdiocese of Esztergom-Budapest.
The inscription on the main façade calls the church the head, mother and teacher of the churches of Hungary.
What to see inside
The main work of art is the high altar painting, The Assumption of Mary by Michelangelo Grigoletti. It is 13.5 metres high and 6.6 metres wide and painted on a single canvas. The frescoes above the side altars are also worth a look, as are the paintings of the four great Western church fathers at the base of the dome. Guided tours explain how these works came to be made.
Beyond the main hall, the visit includes the treasury with its church art, the crypt and the panorama room. The cellar area beneath the church is large, and a wine cellar in the basement belongs to it.
The climb to the dome ends on the observation deck, where the Danube and the Slovak bank lie below. A café is by the exit from the dome.
Around the basilica
Outside, the grounds can be explored free of charge, and food trucks often stand near the entrance. Behind the church, the Dark Gate leads down to Víziváros, the Water Town. The steep Cat Steps, just north of the basilica, are the quickest way down to the Christian Museum, which holds the largest church collection in Hungary.
The basilica is also easy to see from the Slovak side. Cross the Mária Valéria Bridge to Štúrovo and look back at the church on its hill. No passport is needed for the walk, according to one visitor.
FAQ
Is there an entry fee for Esztergom Basilica?
Entering the church and walking the grounds is free. The dome, the treasury and the tombs need a ticket, and a family ticket is available.
How long do you need at the basilica?
Allow one to three hours. Seeing the interior, climbing the dome and visiting the crypt or treasury takes longer than a quick look inside.
Can you visit on Sunday?
Yes, but Mass is held on Sundays, so you cannot enter every part of the church all day. The grounds, the café and the town below stay open to explore.
Should you book tickets in advance?
Buying tickets in advance is recommended for the dome and the other paid parts of the visit.
Is the basilica wheelchair accessible?
The entrance, the restroom and the parking lot are wheelchair accessible. Parking is paid.
