The Witches' Market, known in Spanish as Mercado de las Brujas, is a cluster of lanes in central La Paz, a few blocks from Plaza San Francisco. Its stalls sell dried herbs, remedies, amulets and dried llama fetuses used in Aymara rituals, alongside alpaca wool scarves, sweaters and souvenirs. The lanes show how Andean beliefs and offerings are still part of life for some locals. Walk slowly, ask the sellers what things are used for, and buy something small. Many shops start closing around 5 or 6 p.m., and the street lights make the walk pleasant in the evening.
From a healers' meeting place to a shopping street
The market dates back centuries, when it was a gathering place for traditional healers who sold spiritual items for use in Andean rituals. Many of these traditions still continue.
Today the market is mostly a tourist shopping street, and many stalls sell the same goods. The older items are still on display, though, and they give the lanes their character.
What the stalls sell
The stalls carry medicinal plants, dried herbs and remedies for many ailments, along with elixirs, potions, aphrodisiac balms and ritual figurines. You will also see amulets, soapstone figurines, lacquered frogs, dried starfish, owl feathers, coca leaves and colourful sugar tablets used in offerings.
Some shops sell crystals and preserved animal parts, and the good luck charms and spells often combine plant, animal and mineral materials. Alongside these, the market has sweaters, blankets, scarves, gloves and socks made from baby alpaca wool, plus ponchos, clothing, jewellery and antiques.
Llama fetuses and offerings to Pachamama
Dried llama fetuses are the best-known item here. Locals consider them lucky and use them as offerings to Pachamama, Mother Earth. They are often buried in the foundations of new buildings, where people believe they protect the house and guard against evil spirits and accidents during construction.
Most Bolivians are Catholic, but devotion to Pachamama remains strong. Shamans still come to these stalls to find the ingredients for the rituals they perform. Many sellers describe themselves as healers rather than witches, and they say their remedies do more than treat the body.
How a visit works
The stalls sit close together in narrow lanes on Calles Jiménez and Linares, between Sagárnaga and Avenida Mariscal Santa Cruz. The address is Melchor Jimenez 872. Walking up from Plaza San Francisco and the Rosario neighbourhood takes you there in a few blocks.
The witch shops are few and easy to walk past, so step inside them to see the full range. Some visitors join walking tours that stop here, then come back later to browse for longer. The market is worth a stroll both during the day and as the evening light comes on.
FAQ
What is the Witches' Market known for?
It is known for dried llama fetuses, herbs, remedies and amulets used in Aymara rituals. The stalls also sell alpaca wool clothing and souvenirs.
Why are llama fetuses sold here?
Locals bury dried llama fetuses under the foundations of new buildings as offerings to Pachamama, for protection and good luck.
Can you bargain at the Witches' Market?
In some shops you can negotiate or make a counteroffer, since prices are often higher for visitors.
When is the best time to visit?
Early evening is the suggested time. Many shops start closing around 5 or 6 p.m., and the street lights come on afterwards.
Where is the Witches' Market?
It is on Calles Jiménez and Linares, between Sagárnaga and Avenida Mariscal Santa Cruz, a few blocks from Plaza San Francisco.
