The former ESMA, on Avenida del Libertador in Buenos Aires, was one of the main clandestine detention centres during the civic-military dictatorship of 1976 to 1983. Today, the site is a memorial and human rights space where exhibits document the detention of people held there and the experiences of survivors and victims. Its former buildings and the Casino de Oficiales give the history a direct physical setting. A guided tour, available in English, or an English audio guide can help you understand what you see.
From naval school to detention centre
The site was the Navy School of Mechanics until 1998. During Argentina’s last civic-military dictatorship, from 1976 to 1983, it became one of the main clandestine detention centres. The military junta targeted people it suspected of left-wing dissent during the period known as the Dirty War.
Today, the former complex is the Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos, a space for remembrance and the promotion and defence of human rights. Its purpose is to preserve the history of the site and honour the victims of state terrorism. The former buildings remain part of that account: this is a place where the history is tied to the location itself.
The Casino de Oficiales
The Casino de Oficiales is among the most significant buildings to see. An estimated 5,000 people were held and tortured there. Its rooms offer a physical connection to the experiences documented in the memorial, and the building is a central part of understanding how the detention centre operated.
Exhibits include information about people who were detained, survivors and those who were murdered. The accounts are presented as part of a memorial to the victims, with the site’s history explained through its buildings and interpretive material.
Tours and ways to explore
A guided tour gives context to the former detention site and its history. The English-language tour takes around an hour and a half. If you prefer to explore independently, an audio guide is available in English, including an option to listen on your phone. The site also has a map with short explanations to help visitors find their way through its floors.
Allow time to read and listen rather than treating the visit as a quick walk through. The subject is grave, and the exhibits address detention, torture and murder. Free admission is available; check access arrangements before travelling, since parts of the complex may not always be open.
FAQ
Is admission to the ex ESMA memorial free?
Yes, admission is free. Check current access arrangements before your visit, as parts of the site may close.
Is there an English-language tour?
Yes. An English-language guided tour is available and takes around an hour and a half.
Is there an English audio guide?
Yes. You can use an English audio guide, including an option to listen on your phone.
How long should I allow for a visit?
The guided tour takes around an hour and a half. Allow extra time if you want to explore the site independently.
