St. John’s Co-Cathedral stands on Triq San Gwann in Valletta. Its restrained stone exterior gives little hint of the richly ornamented Baroque interior: look for gilded decoration, painted ceilings, nine side chapels and a floor of inlaid marble tombs. The chief draw for many art lovers is Caravaggio’s The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist. An upstairs exhibition adds context to the paintings and the cathedral’s history. Allow at least 45 minutes to explore, and consider arriving early if you prefer a quieter visit.
A church built for the Order of St John
The Knights of St John commissioned the cathedral as their conventual church in Valletta. Construction took place between 1573 and 1578, after the Order established its base in the new city following the Great Siege of 1565. The building was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, the Order’s patron saint.
It is a co-cathedral because Malta’s principal cathedral is in Mdina. St. John’s became the second cathedral in Valletta, sharing that status with the church in the old capital. The cathedral was designed by Maltese architect Gerolamo Cassar, who also designed other important buildings in Valletta.
The contrast between outside and inside
From the street, the limestone exterior is plain and solid, with a restrained appearance that can seem almost fortress-like. Inside, the character changes: the cathedral was redecorated in the 17th century in an elaborate Baroque style. Painted surfaces, gilded ornament and carved details cover the interior, including work associated with Mattia Preti.
Look up at the ceiling paintings, which depict episodes from the life of Saint John the Baptist. The contrast between the simple exterior and the highly decorated interior is part of the building’s character. Give yourself time to look beyond the main hall; the detail continues through the side chapels.
Chapels, tombs and the cathedral floor
The cathedral has nine side chapels, decorated with features including altars, sculptures, paintings and marble work. Their dedication and decoration reflect the religious life of the Order. The crypt below contains the tombs of Grand Masters, while marble memorials to knights cover the floor above.
The tomb slabs are inlaid with coloured marble and differ in their designs. They are both memorials and a major part of the visual experience inside the church. Watch your step as you look at them, and treat the floor with care. High heels have been discouraged because they can damage its surface.
Caravaggio’s painting and the upstairs exhibition
The best-known artwork here is Caravaggio’s The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist. The large painting is in the oratory and is a central reason art enthusiasts make time for the cathedral. A second Caravaggio work is also associated with the collection. The oratory can draw a crowd, so an early visit may give you more room to take in the paintings.
An exhibition upstairs provides further information about the artworks and the cathedral’s history. It is a useful addition if you want more context after seeing the main interior. Audio commentary is available, though the amount of material can make it a lengthy way to visit; choose how much to listen to based on the time you have.
Planning your visit
Set aside at least 45 minutes, and longer if you plan to study the chapels, paintings and upstairs exhibition in detail. The cathedral can become busy, and advance tickets are recommended. An after-hours tour is another option for those seeking a quieter visit, if one fits your plans.
This is an active place of worship as well as a major cultural site, so dress respectfully. The interior may feel warm, particularly in hotter weather; fans and seating areas are available. Toilets are on site, though queues can form. Only clear water is allowed inside.
Perguntas frequentes
Where is St. John’s Co-Cathedral?
It is on Triq San Gwann in Valletta, Malta. The visitors’ entrance is from Republic Street.
How long should I allow for a visit?
Allow at least 45 minutes. Add time if you want to explore the upstairs exhibition and examine the details throughout the cathedral.
What is the main artwork to see?
Look for Caravaggio’s The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist in the oratory. The cathedral also has a second work associated with Caravaggio.
Is there an exhibition inside the cathedral?
Yes. An upstairs exhibition gives additional information about the artworks and the cathedral’s history.
Are advance tickets recommended?
Yes, advance tickets are recommended. An after-hours tour is an option to consider if you want a quieter visit.
