Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán is the Baroque Dominican church at the north end of Oaxaca's pedestrian street, about a 10-minute walk from the Zócalo. The soft stone facade is finely carved, and the interior is covered in gold leaf, relief carving and painted figures. The Rosary Chapel on the south side is the most elaborate room. Entry to the church is free. The former monastery next door is now the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, and the ethnobotanical garden lies behind it. The church is part of Oaxaca's UNESCO-listed historic centre.
Two centuries of building
Dominican friars built the church and monastery in the 16th century, on the site of a former Zapotec temple. Work spans about two hundred years in total. The friars moved into the complex in 1608, after an earthquake destroyed their earlier convent, San Pablo. The main church and convent were finished around 1619, and the Rosary Chapel was completed in 1731.
The complex is named for Santo Domingo de Guzmán, who founded the Dominican order. A local legend says construction began after he appeared in a dream. The convent was the principal monastery of its province and housed as many as 150 friars and novices. It also served as a Dominican school. It remained an active monastery until 1857, and during Mexico's revolutionary wars it was used as military barracks.
Oaxaca has strong earthquakes, and the walls were built extremely thick to withstand them. The church is part of the UNESCO-listed historic centre. In 1979 it received a visit from Pope John Paul II.
Inside the church
The facade is carved in a Baroque style, in soft stone. Inside, almost every surface is decorated: gilded designs in relief swirl around painted figures, and the ceiling carries detailed artwork. The interior includes more than 60,000 sheets of 23.5 carat gold leaf, and the church has been restored to its original condition.
Look for the main altar, made of gold and carved wood, and the side chapels. The Rosary Chapel, on the south side near the entrance, was completed in the 18th century and is the most elaborate room in the church. At candlelit evening Mass the gold takes on a warm glow.
This is a working church, and people come to pray. Visitors who sit for a while and listen to the prayers find a calm interior behind the busy plaza.
The monastery, museum and garden
The monastery is now the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, part of the Centro Cultural Santo Domingo. Its collection includes pre-Hispanic artifacts and items of cultural, historical and archaeological interest. Among them are Zapotec treasures from Monte Albán and a skull covered in turquoise. You can also walk through the quiet cloisters of the old monastery.
Behind the complex is the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca, a garden of about 2.3 hectares. It shows plants native to the region, including agave, cactus, vanilla and amaranth, as well as plants used in traditional medicine. The museum and garden are paid, separate from the free church.
The plaza and the walk from the Zócalo
The church sits in a small square that is calmer than the Zócalo. Large agave plants surround it. Street vendors sell crafts, painters set up easels, and local theatre and dance groups perform for visitors. Locals and travelers gather here at sunset, and cafes, bars and restaurants are within walking distance. The plaza is also a place for celebration: weddings leave the church in a parade with families, followed by a traditional calenda.
The usual way to arrive is on foot along the pedestrian street, Andador Macedonio Alcalá, from the Zócalo. The walk takes about 10 minutes and passes shops, artisan collectives, galleries and restaurants. The coloured paper flags near the corner of Macedonio Alcalá and Hidalgo make a good photograph.
Perguntas frequentes
Is there an entry fee for Templo de Santo Domingo?
No, the church is free to enter. The Museo de las Culturas and the Jardín Etnobotánico next door charge separate admission, and recording inside the church requires a small fee.
How long do you need at Santo Domingo?
The church can be seen in 30 to 60 minutes. Allow more time if you add the museum, the cloisters and the botanical garden.
How do you get there from the Zócalo?
Walk north along the pedestrian street Andador Macedonio Alcalá. It takes about 10 minutes.
Can you visit during Mass?
The church is a place of worship, and access can be limited while Mass is in progress. Opening times vary, so check before you go. If people are praying, stay quiet and respectful.
Is there a dress code?
The input gives no formal dress code. Because this is a sacred building, modest clothing is a courteous choice.
