The Zócalo, formally the Plaza de la Constitución, is the main square of Oaxaca's historic center. The square is traffic-free and shaded by Montezuma cypresses and other trees. The cathedral stands at its north end and the State Government Palace at its south end, with cafes and restaurants along the edges. Vendors sell traditional clothing and crafts, small carts sell snacks, and musicians and dancers turn up through the week, most often on weekends. Daytime is for sitting in the shade, and the square fills up more in the evening. Mercado Benito Juárez is a short walk away.
How the square is laid out
The Zócalo is the large, tree-shaded square at the historic heart of Oaxaca's center, known locally as Centro. Montezuma cypresses give it its shade, and an Art Nouveau bandstand, installed in 1901, stands at its center. Cars do not enter, so you can cross it freely and sit on the benches.
The cathedral closes the north side. It dates to the 16th century and has been rebuilt after earthquakes. The State Government Palace is on the south side. It now holds art and photography exhibitions, and inside is a mural by Arturo García Bustos that traces the history of Oaxaca. Cafes and restaurants with patios and outdoor tables run along the edges, and some have a direct view of the cathedral.
Two neighboring spaces continue the square. The Alameda de León adjoins it, and the Plaza de la Danza lies to the west, where schoolchildren often play soccer on one side and traditional dance is practiced on the other.
Music, dance and public events
Something is usually going on, though it changes with the day and hour. Street performers, marimba players, fortune tellers and mobile vendors share the square. The Marimba del Estado de Oaxaca plays here on occasion, and brass bands sometimes perform.
Dancing is part of the square's routine. Couples in formal dress dance danzón in the open air. One group of older couples meets regularly and dresses to a theme, such as red and black for Valentine's Day. On a Friday afternoon and evening, bands and dancers in costume have been seen marching to the Zócalo from Santo Domingo. Weekends are generally livelier than weekdays.
The square is also a civic space. It has hosted market days and political protests over the years, and the Grito de Dolores is marked here on the evening of 15 September. Protests and events can restrict access to the surrounding streets, so allow a little extra time on such days.
Eating and drinking around the Zócalo
The restaurants and cafes around the square are a convenient place to sit with a drink and watch the plaza. In the late afternoon, an outdoor table facing the cathedral is a good choice. On the northwest corner, Restaurant Mayordomo serves cold chocolate drinks through a window.
In the evening, small carts appear selling snacks such as esquites and marquesitas. They are a simple, cheap way to eat while walking. Larger carts with small plastic tables and chairs sell plates such as allambre, burritos and tlayudas near Restaurant Mayordomo. Prices there can be high for what is basic street food, so compare before you sit down. A proper restaurant in town may cost about the same.
Where to walk next
Mercado Benito Juárez is a short walk from the square. It is a good place to buy chillies and other ingredients, and some of the products are the same as those sold by the vendors in the Zócalo.
For a longer walk, the pedestrian Calle Macedonio Alcalá starts near the south side of the square and runs north to the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. Along the way are shops, artisan collectives, restaurants and museums. Colorful papel picado, the decorative paper flags, hangs overhead on the south end of the street near its corner with Calle Hidalgo. It is a popular photo spot.
Perguntas frequentes
Is there an entry fee for the Zócalo in Oaxaca?
No. It is a public square and open around the clock, so you can walk through and sit down at no cost.
What is the best time to visit the Zócalo?
Late afternoon and evening bring the most food carts, music and people. During the day the trees give shade, and weekends tend to be livelier.
How long do you need at the Zócalo?
One to three hours is enough to sit, look at the cathedral and palace, and have a drink or snack. Many visitors return at different times of day, since the atmosphere changes.
What is around the Zócalo?
The cathedral is at the north end and the State Government Palace at the south end. The Alameda de León adjoins the square, and Mercado Benito Juárez is a short walk away. The pedestrian street to Santo Domingo starts nearby.
Where can you get a cold chocolate drink near the square?
Restaurant Mayordomo, on the northwest corner, serves cold chocolate drinks from a window.
