The Palazzo della Pilotta is a large complex in the centre of Parma, built on the bank of the river and surrounded by greenery. Its plain, austere exterior opens onto several cultural institutions: the National Gallery, the Palatine Library, the National Archaeological Museum and the Bodoni Museum. The highlight is the Teatro Farnese, a 17th century theatre built almost entirely of wood. The galleries hold paintings by Correggio, Parmigianino and Leonardo da Vinci. Allow 2 to 3 hours and walk the long rooms slowly.
Built by the Farnese dukes
Work on the palace began in 1583 under Ottavio Farnese, the second Duke of Parma. The building was meant to show the family's power over the city, and it also housed the court. The courtyards were once used for pelota, a Basque ball game, which gave the complex its name.
The palace was never finished. Its facade mixes richly carved stone in some places with plain, unadorned walls in others. After the Farnese era, parts of the building were partly abandoned. Philip I of Bourbon later started a restoration, and the work continued over the following centuries. The Second World War damaged the palace heavily, and it was rebuilt afterwards.
The Teatro Farnese
The theatre is the best-known room in the palace. It is built almost entirely of wood and plaster, and it dates from the 17th century. Giovan Battista Aleotti designed it, and it is counted among the most important Baroque theatres in Europe and among the best preserved examples of its kind.
In its early years, it was one of the first indoor theatres in the world. Bombing in the Second World War destroyed it, and it was rebuilt in 1962.
The National Gallery and the other collections
The Galleria Nazionale holds Emilian art from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. Its paintings include works by Correggio and Parmigianino, two of the city's leading Renaissance painters. It also shows a painting by Leonardo da Vinci known as La Scapigliata, or Head of a Woman. Other artists represented include Canaletto, Guercino and Tintoretto.
The Palatine Library keeps rare and ancient books. The National Archaeological Museum, founded in 1790, displays ancient artefacts and relics. The Bodoni Museum is devoted to printing.
Planning a visit
The austere exterior can look unwelcoming from the street, but the interior rewards a slow visit. Piazza della Pace in front of the palace has lawns, fountains and monuments, including one to Giuseppe Verdi. In the evening, locals often gather outside, so the area comes alive after the museums close.
Guided tours of the Farnese Theatre and the National Gallery run on Sunday afternoons. Private guides can also take you from the palace to nearby sights, such as the Ducal Park across the Ponte Verdi and the cathedral and baptistery in the old town.
Häufige Fragen
Is there an entry fee?
Admission is free on the first Sunday of each month. On other days a ticket applies, and a combined ticket covers the complex.
How long do you need?
Plan 2 to 3 hours, since the complex is very large and spread across several buildings.
What is the Teatro Farnese?
It is a 17th century theatre built almost entirely of wood. It is considered one of the most important Baroque theatres in Europe and was rebuilt in 1962 after bombing in the Second World War.
Are guided tours available?
Guided tours of the Farnese Theatre and the National Gallery run on Sunday afternoons. Private guides can also arrange a tour of the palace.
Why is it called Pilotta?
The name comes from pelota, a Basque ball game once played in the palace courtyards.
