Chini Ka Rauza

On the eastern bank of the Yamuna in Agra, Chini Ka Rauza is the tomb of Allama Afzal Khan Mullah, a Persian poet and minister under Shah Jahan. Its Persian-inspired design stands apart from Agra’s marble monuments: the walls and dome retain patches of glazed tile in turquoise, green and orange, with floral patterns and calligraphy. Much of the original decoration has weathered away, but surviving colour and the quiet riverside setting reward a short stop. Look inside as well as around the facade, where painted surfaces preserve more of the tomb’s decorative detail.

The tomb and its patron

Chini Ka Rauza is the mausoleum of Allama Afzal Khan Mullah, a Persian poet and scholar who became a minister in the court of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. Built in the 17th century, the tomb stands on the eastern bank of the Yamuna, about 1 kilometre north of Itimad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb.

The monument’s name refers to its glazed ceramic decoration. It is an unusual change of style from Agra’s better-known marble buildings, with Persian influences shaping both the architecture and the ornament.

Look for colour in the tilework

The facade and dome were decorated with glazed tiles in shades including turquoise, green, yellow and orange. Floral motifs, calligraphy and geometric designs appear in the decorative scheme. Much of the tilework has been lost to weathering, so the remaining patches are most visible when you take time to look closely at the walls and dome.

The exterior is not the only place to examine. Painted decoration survives inside, including on the walls and ceiling. Walk around the structure before leaving, then step inside to see how its surfaces differ from the exposed outer walls.