Phare des Baleines stands at the north-west tip of Île de Ré, in Saint-Clément-des-Baleines. The present tower dates from 1854 and replaced an older lighthouse built by Vauban in the 17th century, which still stands beside it. Visitors can climb 257 steps to the top. From there the salt marshes lie on one side and the Atlantic on the other, with the mainland in view on a clear day. A museum at the foot of the lighthouse tells its history and the life of the keepers, and its displays are designed with children in mind.
Why a lighthouse was built here
The north-west tip of Île de Ré has long been dangerous for ships. In the middle of the 17th century, two vessels ran aground on its rocks, and the loss led to the decision to build a lighthouse to warn sailors away from the reef. The Vauban tower, finished in the 17th century, was the first of these. The village around it, Saint-Clément-des-Baleines, takes its name from the whales that once stranded on this stretch of shore, and the lighthouse carries the same name.
The tower you climb today was built in 1854 and is in the Victorian style. It replaced the older building, which is now a historic monument. The two stand close together on a windswept outcrop, so you can compare them directly.
The climb and the view
The ascent is made up of 257 spiral steps. It asks for some endurance, but it is not technical, and the top gives a view in every direction. On one side are the salt marshes of the fier. On the other is the open ocean. On a clear day you can see the mainland, and below you the long beach and the old Vauban tower.
The wind at the top is strong and cool, even on a warm day, so a light layer is useful and loose items need a firm grip. Go in through the entrance at the back, on the seaward side.
The museum and the old tower
A museum at the foot of the lighthouse traces the history of the site and the lives of the keepers who ran it. The route is built with families in mind. Explanatory panels and multimedia stations tell the story in a way children can follow, and it makes a good break for anyone who prefers not to climb.
The 17th-century Vauban tower stands next to the lighthouse and is part of the same visit. Seen from the top of the newer tower, it shows how the island's way of marking this headland changed over two centuries.
Getting here and what is nearby
The lighthouse has its own dedicated cycle route. From Saint-Martin-de-Ré it is around 21 km. Past the turn-off to Loix, signs lead all the way to the lighthouse. There are free and paid parking areas and spaces for wheelchair users, but parking can be difficult in holiday periods.
Next to the lighthouse, the wide sandy beach of Conche des Baleines stretches away toward Les Portes-en-Ré, and the water is clear enough for a swim on a hot day. Ice cream is on sale nearby, and there are restaurants and bars close to the lighthouse.
Häufige Fragen
How many steps are there to the top of Phare des Baleines?
There are 257 steps. The staircase is a spiral, and the climb needs a little endurance.
Is there an entry fee?
Yes, the climb is paid. Buying tickets in advance is recommended, and the lighthouse website has the current price.
Is the Phare des Baleines good for kids?
Yes. The museum is designed for children, with panels and multimedia stations about the keepers' lives. The climb is long for small legs, so judge by the age of your children.
How do you get to Phare des Baleines by bike?
A dedicated cycle route leads to the lighthouse, about 21 km from Saint-Martin-de-Ré. After the turn-off to Loix, follow the signs.
Where should the lighthouse fit in a day on Île de Ré?
It is at the far north-west end of the island, so it works well as the first stop. You can then move back toward the mainland.
