Mercado Central de Abastos is Spain's oldest covered market, on Plaza de la Libertad in Cádiz, and it has served the city since 1838. The main hall is built around fish and seafood, from bluefin tuna and white prawns to dogfish, and it is a working market for local shoppers as much as a stop for visitors. Around the edge, small bars and stalls serve tapas, fried fish and sherry. Come early for the catch, and stay for a meal at the stalls.
A market since 1838
The market opened in 1838 on Plaza de la Libertad, and it is the oldest covered market in Spain. The hall was built on the site of a former convent.
The city council decided in 1837 to build a market on a central plot so that the population could be supplied. The architect Juan Daura was given the job of building it to plans by Torcuato Benjumeda, who died before he could finish the work.
The building
The design is neoclassical, with a colonnade of Doric columns and a large column gate at the entrance.
The building has been renovated several times. A major renovation in 2009 updated the space while keeping its historic character. Today a newer central section sits alongside the original market.
What the stalls sell
Fish and seafood take up most of the main hall. The Atlantic catches include bluefin tuna, known locally as atún rojo, white prawns called gambas blancas, and cazón, a type of dogfish. The expensive Almadraba tuna is named after a Phoenician fishing method still used off the Cádiz coast.
Fruit, vegetables, meat, cheese and bread are sold here too. Local households shop for their daily needs at the market, so the hall keeps a working rhythm even when visitors are around.
Eating at the stalls
Around the edge, stalls and small bars serve tapas and cooked dishes. El Freidor del Mercado is known for fried fish served in paper cones. Lady Papa's serves traditional tapas, and Las Niñas Veganas offers vegan and gluten-free dishes, including a dish of the day.
Some stalls serve fried pork rinds with a beer on the side. Drinks include sherry, wine, beer and sangria. A gastronomic corner, the rincón gastronómico, has several stalls that cook with produce bought in the market that day.
The food is seasoned strongly in places. Fried pork can be quite salty, so order a small plate first if you are unsure.
Around the market
The cathedral is less than five minutes away on foot. Torre Tavira and Plaza de las Flores are close by, so the market fits easily into a walk through the historic centre.
Practical notes
Debit cards, credit cards and contactless NFC payments are accepted. The entrance and the restroom are wheelchair accessible.
The outdoor seating areas are not always clean, and some corners need more care. Choose a clean table, and clear your space before you sit down.
Perguntas frequentes
Where is Mercado Central de Abastos?
It is on Plaza de la Libertad in Cádiz, 11005. It is less than five minutes on foot from the cathedral, and it sits between Torre Tavira and Plaza de las Flores.
Can you pay by card?
Yes. The market accepts debit cards, credit cards and contactless NFC payments.
Is the market wheelchair accessible?
The entrance and the restroom are wheelchair accessible.
What should I eat there?
Fried fish in a paper cone is the classic order at El Freidor del Mercado. Fried pork rinds with a cold beer and oysters are also worth trying at the stalls.
