Kefallonia in 5 days: Myrtos, caves, the north and Ithaca by car

Five days is enough to see the best of Kefallonia without spending the whole trip in a car, as long as each day stays in one part of the island. The Kefallonia travel guide explains the setting. If Kefallonia is one stop on a longer trip, the Greece guide shows how to link it with Athens, the mainland or other Ionian islands.

The plan assumes a rental car from day two. Roads are narrow and winding, villages are tight and a trip that looks short on the map can take an hour. It also assumes you travel between May and October, when boats, beach tavernas and mountain villages are open. In winter, rain changes the picture, and our best time to visit Greece page shows how the seasons compare.

Where you sleep changes the route. The loop below suits a base in Argostoli, which is central, and most places are within 45 to 75 minutes of it. If you sleep in the north, the east or the south, shift the days so the farthest area comes first. The where to stay in Kefallonia guide compares the five main bases. Drive times here are typical, not guarantees, so add a buffer for stops and photographs.

Use the first day to settle in and see the capital at an easy pace. Argostoli stands on a bay on the west side, with a waterfront of cafés, a long shopping street called the Lithostroto and a market near the harbor. Much of the town was rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake, so you will find modern buildings more than old ones. Our Argostoli guide covers the town in more detail.

In the late morning, walk or drive to the lighthouse of Agios Theodoros, a round stone lighthouse on a headland a few minutes from town, and look at the nearby sea mills, where seawater flows into sinkholes. It is a short, easy stop with good views at the end of the day. Beaches near Lassi, a few minutes north of the center, are good for a first swim.

If you have energy, drive to the old fortress of Agios Georgios, the Venetian capital of the island until the 18th century, on a hill about 20 minutes from Argostoli. Check opening hours first, since they change by season. Return for dinner by the water; try the Kefalonian meat pie and a glass of local Robola white wine. The short ferry across the bay to Lixouri is another option if you like boat rides.

Drive east across the island to Sami, about 40 to 45 minutes from Argostoli, and start with the Melissani cave lake. The lake lies inside a cave where the sun lights the water through a hole in the roof, and visitors cross it in small boats. It is one of the island's best-known sights, and opening days and times change with season and weather, so check with the operator before you drive.

A few minutes away, Drogarati is a dry cave with a large chamber of stalactites, used for concerts. Visit it either side of Melissani, and go early in the day in July and August, when the buses arrive. Allow about 30 to 45 minutes in each cave, and bring a light layer, since the temperature inside is cool.

Spend the afternoon at Antisamos, a beach set below green hills near Sami, with clear water and a few tavernas. After a swim, walk along the waterfront in Sami or drive to Agia Efimia, a quieter harbor village a short distance north, for dinner. If you sleep in Sami, this day is easy; if you sleep in Argostoli, plan to leave by 9am and be back before dark.

The north is the island's most scenic stretch and needs the longest drive, so start early. Go first to Myrtos, about an hour from Argostoli, and stop at the viewpoint above the beach before you go down. The beach lies below a steep switchback road, with limited parking, and is at its best in the morning or late afternoon. Check the sea before you swim; rough water can make swimming unsafe even on a calm-looking day.

From Myrtos, drive about 20 to 30 minutes to Assos, a village of pastel houses on a small peninsula, with a Venetian fortress on the headland above. Park at the edge, stroll down to the harbor and walk the path up to the fortress if you have the energy. Have lunch at a harbor taverna, and keep the afternoon slow.

Finish at Fiskardo, the harbor village at the northern tip, about 20 to 30 minutes beyond Assos. It was spared by the 1953 earthquake, so old stone houses remain around the water. Walk the harbor, stop at a taverna and, if you like boat trips, check the sailings to nearby coves. Return before dark, since the northern roads are slow at night, or sleep here and make the trip a two-day plan.

The south is calmer and more open. Start with Mount Ainos, the island's highest mountain, covered in a national park of native Greek fir. A road climbs toward the summit area from the main road, and short paths lead to viewpoints; allow about 1.5 hours with the drive and a short walk. Check the road and weather first, since the mountain can be cloudy when the coast is clear.

Drive down to the south coast and spend the middle of the day at Skala, with its long beach, tavernas and the remains of a Roman villa near the village. Loggerhead turtles nest on beaches along this coast in summer, and local rules protect them, so follow the posted signs. If you prefer a quiet cove, ask your hotel which stretches are best on the day, since wind changes the sea.

Return by Poros, the port on the southeast coast where ferries from the mainland arrive, and stop for a coffee or an early dinner on the harbor. If you have time, visit a winery in the Robola area of the center, many of which offer tastings by appointment. The drive back to Argostoli takes about 40 to 60 minutes, depending on where you are.

Use the last day for something different. The easiest option is Ithaca, the quieter island east of Kefallonia. A ferry leaves from Sami and takes about 30 minutes, and Vathy, the main town, has a deep harbor, tavernas and small coves. You can go as a foot passenger and walk around the town, or take the car and drive to the north. Check ferry times and whether to take your car, since schedules change by season.

If you would rather stay on Kefallonia, a free day on a beach is also a good ending. Choose Lassi or Skala for facilities, Antisamos for clear water or the beach at Petani on the Lixouri side for a wilder coast. Keep it flexible; wind and tired legs may change your mind, and a day with no schedule is a fair reward at the end of the trip.

If you plan to leave by ferry or flight the next morning, return the car with a full tank and allow extra time. The airport is about 9 km south of Argostoli, and the ferry to Kyllini leaves from Poros, so check which you need. Our Getting around Greece page covers how to compare options.

A small car is the best way to follow this route. Roads are narrow, villages are tight and parking is limited at the best beaches in July and August. Book the car with your flight or ferry, since summer supply is limited, and check whether the rental cover excludes unpaved roads. Buses run from Argostoli to a few towns, but they are thin, so use them only if you stay on one coast.

Fill the tank before a long drive, since stations are fewer in the north and west. Drive slowly on the switchbacks and leave room for oncoming traffic on narrow bends. An eSIM helps with navigation, since signal can fade in the mountains, and travel insurance is worth comparing for rental-car excess and ferries delayed by wind.

For rooms that fit this route, see where to stay in Kefallonia, and if you are still deciding on the island, read Kefallonia, Zakynthos or Corfu.