Trsat Castle stands on a hill 138 metres above sea level, above Rijeka on the Croatian coast. The climb rewards you with views over the harbour, the city and Kvarner Bay out to the island of Krk. The fortress grew from ancient lookout posts and was built in the 13th century by the Frankopan dukes. Inside you will find a small museum on the castle's history, a visual arts gallery, and a café with a terrace beneath the Nugent mausoleum. Allow an hour or two, and go in late afternoon if you want the light over the bay.
From Roman lookout to Frankopan fortress
The hill above the Rječina gorge has served as a lookout for a very long time. A watchtower or stronghold stood here from the time of the Illyrians, who held much of the Balkans before the Romans arrived, and the Romans used the site too.
The fortress you see today was built in the 13th century by the Frankopan dukes of Krk, a noble family that held land along the Kvarner coast.
Over the following centuries the castle changed hands between Venetian and Habsburg powers. By the 17th century it was in poor repair, and the 1750 earthquake that struck the Rijeka and Bakar area did further damage. For a time it was largely forgotten.
The Nugent restoration
In the 19th century the castle came back into use. Laval Nugent, an Irish-born commander in the Austrian army who had fought Napoleon, bought the ruin and had it restored in a neoclassical Biedermeier style. He made it his residence.
His mausoleum stands beside the terrace café, and the Greek vases from his collection are now held in Zagreb's Museum of Archaeology. The mausoleum is worth a look if you are interested in Central European history.
What you will find on the hilltop
The castle is semi-ruined, so you walk along the bastions and ramparts rather than through furnished rooms. A small museum in one room covers the castle's history.
The site also hosts a visual arts gallery, open-air summer concerts, theatre, fashion shows and literary evenings. A Trsat Castle Info Point inside can answer questions about the building and the city.
Getting up the hill
You can climb the stone staircase that starts at Titov trg, which was built in 1531 for pilgrims on their way to the church. The views widen with every flight.
A city bus gets you close in about ten minutes. You can also drive, with paid and free parking lots nearby. The stairs are long, so families with small children should plan rest stops.
Our Lady of Trsat and the Franciscans
Next to the castle is a Franciscan monastery with the Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat, a long-standing pilgrimage site. Tradition holds that Saint Luke painted the image in the shrine, though this is a tradition rather than a proven fact.
The monastery's gardens make a quiet place to walk. Keep your voice low and dress modestly inside the shrine, since people come here to pray.
Perguntas frequentes
Is there an entry fee?
Admission has been listed as free, and the castle has also charged a small fee, so check the official website for current prices before you go.
How long do you need at Trsat Castle?
Plan one to two hours. That covers the views, the small museum and a drink at the café.
How do you get to Trsat Castle?
Climb the stone staircase from Titov trg, or take a city bus, which reaches the castle in about ten minutes. You can also drive and use the parking lots.
Is there an audioguide?
Yes. A free app gives commentary at about a dozen stops around the castle, in English and Croatian.
Is Trsat Castle good for children?
Yes. Children can run around the grounds, walk the old walls and imagine being knights. The stairs are a workout, so plan rest stops.
